Sunday, July 29 “Hail” (Kreg)

Last night, after finishing my journal entry, the “worst thunderstorm in years” rolled over Saddleback, according to the owner of the hostel I’m sleeping at tonight. Laying in my tent, the thunder rolled in louder and louder with each passing minute. Luckily, I was between two peaks, even if still above 3000 feet. I felt ten times safer than my trek up Spaulding Mountain from the day before. Not long after the thunder came the rain. And then, the hail. Yes, HAIL. Hail in Maine in the middle of July. It sounded like someone was slapping the top of my rain fly over and over again as I closed my eyes to try and sleep. And somehow, I passed out. I slept through most of it. Woke up dry in the morning. Props to Big Agnes – the brand that manufactures my tent. Worth every penny.

The next morning, I woke up and ascended The Horn and then Saddleback.  The entire trail was one big stream, with water flowing over gigantic, nearly vertical slabs of granite. A tough climb, but I was excited because a couple at my campsite had said the forecast was clear for the next few days. But as soon as I got above treeline, I couldn’t see 10 feet in front of me. And that’s how it was for about two miles – up The Horn, down and then up to Saddleback. Just me in the clouds.

More slabs of wet granite on the way down – my feet, socks, and shoes had been soaked through for three days at this point. I got off trail and found the Hiker Hut – an “off the grid” little haven. I got to take a steaming hot outdoor shower by a running stream, and they had snacks for me when I arrived. Who needs running water and electricity when you’ve got great hospitality?

Dried out my stuff as the sun came out, and then headed into Rangeley for my traditional burger and a beer. I’ve had burgers in every town so far, and nothing else. Even when I have taken an extra day off – I just go back to a new restaurant (or the same one for the towns with only one restaurant) and order another burger. I don’t think I’ll get sick of them.

At the bar, a man spoke to me at length about how I am paying social security taxes but will never see a dime of it when I retire. He suggested that I open 6 Limited Liability Corporations in order to shield my income and avoid paying the tax. I told him I had other priorities at the moment. Folks from Maine, I’m realizing, are pretty conservative outside liberal Portland. I’ve had at least three conversations about taxes and how they’re way too high here. The topic comes up randomly but quickly.

My back feels pretty good, and this last stretch was a tough one, so I’m hoping this means it’s healing. Still, I’m doing lots of stretching, rolling it out with a tennis ball, and taking ibuprofen before bed each night. Otherwise, feet and knees seem to be holding out for now. I’m sure something else will start hurting soon!

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